This paddle type is based on the South Greenland ‘storm’ paddle and is meant to be used continually in the full sliding stroke mode. It is useful as a spare paddle since it can be stored on deck easily because of its short length. The correct length should be equal to the distance from fingertip to fingertip with the paddler’s arms outstretched. Construction style and materials are the same as for normal length paddles - see product information.

Stroking: The complete stroke is performed by holding the paddle first on one side and then the other. When changing sides, the paddle is slid through the hands so that the hand positions are exchanged. Start with the writing on the blades facing you in the correct way for reading i.e. the right way up and at the lower edge of the blades.

1. The paddle is held with the outer end of one blade in one hand and the other hand gripping the inner end of the other blade (middle of the paddle). The stroke is performed in the normal manner on that side and at the end of the stroke the hand positions are exchanged as follows.

2. Without changing the grip, the paddle is first lifted into the normal position for the start of the opposite stroke.

3. At that point the hand gripping the outer blade is moved to the middle of the paddle (i.e. to the short shaft or the inner end of the blade).

4. This hand then pulls  the downward blade into the water, while the upper blade slides through  the upper (stationary) hand to a comfortable position.

5. At this point the opposite stroke can start.

When learning, it is best to try to move only one hand, keeping the hand in the air more or less stationary at the start of the stroke on each side. Eventually, with practice, the hand in the air can give a short push or throw to the paddle so that the lower hand does not need to move up quite as far to reach the middle position. When practised and fluent both hands will be moving at the same time at changeover.

Most beginners tend to change hand positions by moving first one hand and then the other in a two stage process. This is slow and should be avoided at the outset, if possible, by keeping the hand in the air stationary. Practice in slow motion on dry land at first until the movement is more fluid. It is essential to become confident with it before relying on it as a back-up or spare paddle.

Finish: This paddle is treated with a mixture of oils. The final coats are of Rustin’s Danish Oil. While this finish is not as durable as some others it is non-toxic and has the considerable advantage of easy maintenance.

After a period of use the paddle can be washed in freshwater and allowed to dry. A single coat or several coats of Danish oil can be applied to restore the finish. When the final coat is well dry it is best to dull the high gloss with fine steel wool (000 grade). A ‘Brillo’ pad will do if nothing else is to hand. This helps to prevent the paddle slipping in use when wet.

The paddle can be treated at any time with Danish oil but especially if bare patches of wood are evident. The oil can be smoothed on by hand. Frequency of re-treatment obviously depends on use but should be at least once a year. The paddle should be stored in a dry place when not in use for more than a few days.

Should scuffing or scratches roughen the surface, fine sandpaper can be used to restore the desired smoothness especially at the blade shoulders where the hands grip the paddle normally. After sanding, two or three coats of Danish oil should be applied before use. The last coat should be allowed a couple of days to dry before flattening the high gloss finish with steel wool. This time is obviously made shorter in a warm, dry atmosphere but proximity to heaters should be avoided.

This paddle is intended to be used with the writing on the blades the right way up and facing the paddler .

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